Jan 22 2015
Today we
popped into a small café with six tables. The menu was in Spanish only, which
is common here. The owner called someone and brought the phone to our table so
we could have a translator if needed. Our attitude is ‘let’s try this’, often having
no idea what the ingredients are. Anyway, we ordered empanadas. She started
with a bread basket with four treats: cinnamon roll, chocolate croissant,
banana muffin and a sweet breakfast roll that is common here. All were moist
and fabulous and the best we have had in our 12 days in Mexico . Then came fresh watermelon
slices with yogurt on the side. The empanadas were chicken and out of this
world. The two sauces accompanying the empanadas were mole and verde and
equally fabulous. Because we raved about the pastries she sent us home with two
wrapped in corn husks.. It was one of those very special experiences where you
connect with a stranger and both come away feeling special.
We have
spent three days with a real estate agent and feel confident that we can find a
place to live here. Mostly we saw new gated communities which we aren’t
interested in. No surprise there. Today at lunch Ron and I started talking
about how we could buy a house here and fix it up. Ah the old rehabbers are alive
and well in our hearts. Just a fantasy as we have yet to see Panama and Costa Rica but it was funny to take
a look at ourselves.
Anyway, we
are still holding up well with our odyssey. We splurge when we feel the need. So
we have hired a private car with driver to take us back to Mexico
City to the bus station rather than take a bus from Puebla that is six miles
from here then transfer to another bus in MC. It just is easier with all of the
luggage we brought.
Monday we
head to San Miguel de Allende. Everyone loves SMA. I have a bias in that it has
a huge expat community. It is also more expensive because of that. But it is
supposed to be quite beautiful and very arty. We will be there for two weeks
and will meet with a friend’s cousin and with a friend of a friend in Portland who also has
lived there for years. These folks can give us lots of insight to living there.
Jan 23
Today we
were tourists again. After coffee at Starbucks we caught the bus to Puebla and visited the Cathedral of Puebla. The brochure claims
it is one of the most beautiful in the world. Although it was beautiful I
didn’t agree with the description. I hope I don’t sound like an effete snob.
Next we
walked around the corner to the Biblioteca Palafoxiana. It was founded in 1646
by a bishop who left 43,000 volumes here.
An original map from 1601 of the "new world" |
It is absolutely gorgeous with the
original highly carved and polished wood shelving and library tables. There
were books here that were printed in 1455 and 1500!! It was a thrill to see
them and the room. This is the oldest library in the Americas . It was the highlight of our sightseeing thus
far. I am so glad we came back to Puebla
to see it.
We then
walked a fair distance to see the Teatro Principal built in 1760. Unfortunately
we could only see the outside and foyer. I liked the simple Spanish
architecture with its clean lines and lack of over the top decoration. Perhaps
the actual theatre is another story. After a long walk to the bus depot we
grabbed a bus back to Cholula
and walked to the restaurant we visited yesterday.
Another great meal here. I
have written two reviews about the place on Trip Advisor. We plan to eat here
on o Sunday our last day in Cholula .
We found a cab near the restaurant and took it to the church of Santa Maria
Tonantzintla .
It was the most unusual church I
have seen in my many years of travel. Every wall was covered in stucco
figurines, gold leaf, fruit, children, saints, pagan symbols, flowers and
birds. We were not allowed to take photos so bought some post cards and Ron
took photos of those so you can get an idea of the church. It felt very
Mexican: a blend of Spanish and Indian styles. Although it was Baroque style
which I do not like, I loved this place and am glad we made the effort to get there.
The cab brought us back to the hostel. It was a very full day.
Jan 24
This morning we made French toast for breakfast. Then headed
to Starbucks for our daily fix. Today we lazed. We have seen all the real
estate we want to see for now and have done all the sight seeing we want to do, so it is a day to relax and slow down in order to gear up for San Miguel where
we will repeat our search for real estate, cost of living and getting a general
picture of the town. We tried a restaurant for lunch that Pilar had told us
about. Pilar in probably in her late 20’s to mid 30’s. So this place was a
happening place. It had a very cool décor in funk. The food was not impressive.
We ordered a mixed salad but it was drenched in a vinegary dressing and lasagna
with eggplant and meat. There was no pasta in it and the eggplant wasn’t fully
cooked. The rest was ground meat. Not our favorite.
We walked in search of a movie theatre that Pilar had told
us about but it was having a French film festival and all the films were French
with Spanish subtitles. We walked back to our hostel on a different path
because I wanted to see a couple of shops that I hadn’t been to. I have managed
to lose two of my favorite pairs of earrings on this trip. So I popped into one
of these shops and was thrilled. The owner had exquisite taste. The place had
beautiful silver jewelry, wonderful weavings and pottery that looked like
authentic replicas of Meso American ancient pieces. The owner was from Spain but lives
here now. I saw the only turquoise ring I have ever liked but didn’t try it on
because I have only finger that I can wear a ring on due to my arthritis and
usually noting fits. We chatted awhile about Cholula and I found a pair of very Mexican
looking earrings. Then we walked to the shop next door and bought some granola.
When we got back to the hostel, I again looked at a case in the reception area
that has a display from the store wear we get the granola. I have been admiring
a beautiful woven shawl. I realized that it would go with a pair of pants I bought
in Sri Lanka
so brought them to the reception area and sure enough it was a perfect match. I
then looked at the second color in the weaving and realized it was a perfect
match for a Sri Lankan blouse I had. Bingo. Sold!
We walked to another restaurant Pilar had recommended for
dinner but it was closed so we ate at a humble eatery next to our hostel. It
was fabulous. One of the common dishes here is taco arabes, a variation of
swarmas. Apparently Lebanese came to Mexico
and have left their mark as this is a common dish in Cholula . We had two different dishes with the
meat and both were great. We couldn’t finish so brought the leftovers to the
night clerk at the hostel.
Jan 25
Today was another lazy day. We decided to eat breakfast at
La Tertulia so we went to Starbucks on our way then headed over for a late
breakfast around 10:30. Today the owner’s husband was serving as waiter. He
hasn’t been there before. We each had a new dish and as always we were very
happy with our meal. Ron had a ‘gusto omelet’ with bacon and sausage and I had
empanadas with potatoes. This came with a pastry basket, fresh orange juice,
toast for Ron, two sauces and tea. All for $10! I could get used to this.
We walked back taking our time, going through old town
Cholula San Pedro and sitting in the zocalo and people-watching for a while. Once
we got back to the hostel, I started packing while Ron Skyped with David and
the kids. By 2:30 I was a little hungry so we headed to Starbucks for another
Americano and a snack. Tonight we are going to our other favorite restaurant
located in a beautiful old 17th century casa that is now a boutique
hotel. When we stopped by there the other day the manager showed us the library
and two of the rooms. It was drop dead gorgeous. The owner is an economist who
restored the place about 20 years ago. He had a wonderful vision and truly
appreciated the gem he had. The tile work, the woodwork, the furnishings,
everything was perfecto! When we ate there before I had a chipotle shrimp soup
that I am still savoring and Ron had a warm spinach salad with beans and sun
dried tomatoes that I will order tonight. We shared a salmon entrée.
While we were in our room today I heard a brass bands
marching by the hostel. This has occurred several times but I never got out to
see them until today. I ran out to see about 20 people, some playing
instruments, some dancing in the street in front and behind the ‘band’ (no one
was in a uniform, just street clothes) and some in costumes with wild hats. I
have no idea what this is but it made me smile and bounce up and down on my
feet. Such a happy place. Why don’t we do this in the US ….probably because you would need
a permit and have noise restrictions…
This wraps up our time in Cholula and it has been truly wonderful. The
people on the street have been incredibly friendly, the food quite good and the
weather ideal.
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