Volcanoes and Jaguars and Butterflies, Oh My!

March 21

We got up early and Carlos picked us up at 7:00. Off to Poas Volcano National Park, a mere 28 miles from downtown San Jose. The park is 8,895 ft above sea level and the scenery is spectacular. 

Caribbean view

Pacific view

We could see the Caribbean and Pacific from up top. The upper slopes of Poas are often covered in clouds which give rise to cloud forests. 

We passed large coffee fincas (farms), strawberry farms, and tiny villages along the way. We were quite lucky as we got there early and it was crystal clear, no clouds. According to Carlos, many tourists never get to see the volcano because of the cloud cover. We could only stay at the overlook of the crater for 20 minutes due to the sulfur fumes. Warning signs were posted everywhere.  The crater is 4,300 ft across and 984 ft deep. Volcanic gases bubble up through the lake which heats the lake to 136-199 degrees Fahrenheit. Poas emits between 40 and 500 tons of CO2 each day and other ejected gases generate acid rain and acid fog that have left parts of the northwest slope barren like a lunar landscape. Otherwise there is rich vegetation everywhere.

After leaving the crater we hiked to an older crater, Laguna Botos. Here the lake and surrounding area looked completely different. The lake was clear and the water is cold according to Carlos. Did I mention that Carlos is a forest ranger? With the recession, his job was cut from full-time to a contract position two days a week. When there was a large earthquake a few years ago, Carlos stayed in this area for five days helping recover bodies, dead and alive, working around the clock. The community was so thankful for his efforts he is always given free treats at the concessions at the park.

Poas is an active volcano. In 1910 an eruption produced an ash cloud 5 miles high and deposited 640,000 tons of ash over the Central Valley. The last major eruption was in 1953 and the eruption produced an ash cloud 4.3 miles high. Minor eruptions are far more common. In 2009 an eruption launched a mixture of ash and water 1,800 ft into the air.

We hiked back to the car.  We to La Paz where we stopped for photos as the scenery is too grand to pass up. Coffee farms, strawberry farms and the Central Valley with the morning sun were too much to resist.

La Paz Waterfall Gardens is a private enterprise but according to Carlos they work hand in hand with the government, ensuring that flora and fauna are well managed according to sound sustainable practices. The entrance fee is $40 per person. After being there I could see why. They have done an excellent job with the infrastructure and the gardens. It was so tastefully executed. All paths are made with pavers to avoid getting into slippery muddy trails. There are railings everywhere that look like quaint wood railings yet they are made of cast concrete.

Crested guan

Crested mandibled toucan

First we went on trail across a small creek and the vegetation was incredibly dense and green, the result of the daily clouds that roll in. 

Parrot

Scarlet macaw

Blue Morpho

We returned to the center where there is a wildlife refuge filled with over 100 Costa Rican species, including frogs, snakes, monkeys, sloths, toucans, hummingbirds, butterflies, and wild cats (jaguars, pumas, ocelots).I loved the butterfly enclosure. Thousands were flying around and would land on Carlos, Ron and me. I was also enthralled with the hummingbird section which was not an enclosed space.

White faced capuchin
or
Hasidic Monkey

White ruffed manakin

Violet sabrewing (humming bird)

Puma

Ocelots

Jaguar

Green poison dart frog

Red eyed leaf frog

Strawberry poison dart frog

We went into a traditional house from the past which showed how a typical family would have lived. We were treated to a sugar cane tea, quesco (homemade cheese) and cornbread made with coconut milk. Outside the house was a man with the famous highly decorated ox carts from this region. 

We started our 2.2 mile waterfall hike and loved it. Five waterfalls and the trail was close to the river the entire time. I love the sound of rushing water. By the end of the walk we had been on our feet for hours and I was ready to drop. Fortunately there was shuttle bus to take us back to the center where we had a classic buffet lunch. 

We came home after lunch arriving at 3:00 and rested. At 7:00 we decided to go out for dinner as neither of us had the energy to make a simple supper. We had soup and salad at a bar in Avenida Escazu. Our Caesar salad had too much anchovy so I asked Ron to join me afterwards for a sorbet at the gelato shop nearby to kill the anchovy aftertaste. Oh yum!

Some of the flora we saw along the way: